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Lemberger - An Evening of Mediterranean Warmth...
 History
Officially classified under the name “Blauer Limberger,” this red grape
variety also goes by the synonyms “Lemberger” and “Blaufränkisch.” The late-ripening
Lemberger probably originated in vineyards on the lower stretches of the Danube River. The
grape was documented in Austria in the second half of the 18th century and is cultivated
there to this day (as Blaufränkisch) in Burgenland and near Vienna. In Hungary it is known as
Kékfrankos. In the 19th century a “wine improvement society” advocated replacing
high-yielding varieties with high-quality grapes (such as Lemberger) in the Kingdom of
Württemberg. Indeed, Lemberger wines from Württemberg were the favorite of the first
president of the Federal Repubic of Germany, Theodor Heuss, and it is said that the variety
was equally as popular with Bismarck and Napoleon.
Significance
During the past decades there has been a steady increase in the vineyard area planted with
Lemberger. In the '80s it comprised some 400 to 500 ha (988 to 1,235 acres); in 1998, it
surpassed 1,000 ha (ca. 2,500 acres); and today there are nearly 1,200 ha (ca. 3,000 acres).
It is almost exclusively cultivated in Württemberg, where it accounts for about 10% of the
total vineyard area (in Germany overall, 1%).
Viticulture
Lemberger thrives in a warm climate and wind-protected sites, not least because bud-burst
is early and it ripens late. In very good sites, this Württemberg specialty brings forth
excellent quality. It does well in various soil types, especially fertile, deep, loess-loam
soils. Yields are average in size.
Viniculture/Taste
For wine connoisseurs, Lemberger is a “coat of many colors”.....ranging from light and
fruity wines to those that are rich in extract and tannin (of Spätlese and Auslese ripeness).
Usually, the wines are extremely dark in color. The bouquet can range from rather quiet to
powerful, reminiscent of blackberries, sweet or sour cherries, plums, currants, gooseberries,
elderberries, bananas and chocolate, as well as vegetal aromas, such as green beans or green
bell peppers. Depending on vinification techniques, the wines have a fruity or a tannic
accent and a long finish. Thanks to their acid, extract and tannin profile, even drier
versions of Lemberger have good aging potential. Barrique-aging adds another
dimension...reminiscent of Mediterranean warmth and charm. Ambitious vintners and
cooperatives often blend Lemberger with Trollinger (depending on the percentage of the
cuvée's components, the wine will be labeled with the predominant variety named first).
Sparkling wine, or Sekt, made from the Lemberger grape is a real speciality.
Taste/Food Affinities
Light, fruity Lemberger wines (i.e. the proverbial Viertele = quarter liter, or
Württemberg's typical wine-by-the-glass serving size) are ideal with platters of cheese
and/or cold cuts as well as summer BBQ foods. More tannic Lemberger wines are great with
pâtés, grilled foods, Swabian “steak with sautéed onions,” and the whole range of roasted
game (feathered or furry); also: pot roast, lamb, roast beef, and cheese, such as low-fat
blue, brined (e.g. feta), or ripe Alpine (fairly pungent in aroma and/or flavor) types.
Return to Grape Varieties
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